Installing new drywalls walls

Call it wallboard, plasterboard, Sheetrock, or just plain "rock," like some pros do, drywall revolutionized the way walls and ceilings are covered.

Before the s, when these paper-wrapped gypsum panels came into widespread use, it took days for lathers and plasterers to create a firm, flat foundation for paint or wallpaper. With drywall, it takes a fraction of the time. Two pros can typically cover a byfoot room in about an hour. To work that fast takes practice and a few specialized tools.

But hanging drywall is not just about speed. Doing the job right means using screws of the correct length, off-setting panels so seams don't line up, and making sure wires and pipes aren't vulnerable to puncture. Installing drywall is easy enough for a homeowner, as long as there's someone to help; the heavy sheets are difficult to lift, particularly when doing ceilings. Follow the drywalling tips below to learn how to hang drywall like a pro.

The light-gray product known as drywall is the type in widest use. When butted end-to-end, its factory-beveled lengthwise edges form a shallow swale for a topping of joint compound and tape. The sheets most commonly available in hardware stores measure 4 by 8 feet, but lengths can reach up to 16 feet and widths up to 54 inches, which speeds the installation and minimizes the number of seams. These, however, are used only to cover existing drywall.

Cookie banner We use cookies and other tracking technologies to improve your browsing experience on our site, show personalized content and targeted ads, analyze site traffic, and understand where our audiences come from. By choosing I Accept , you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. How to Hang Drywall. By Scott Gibson.

Pinterest Email Pocket Flipboard. Buy one or two extra per room to cover any cutting mistakes. Check that electrical cables are protected from screws or nails. Tuck wires behind receptacles as far as possible into the back of switch boxes and ceiling-fixture boxes. Uncover any electrical boxes concealed by insulation. Plan ceiling-panel layout so seams are at least 8 inches away from light-fixture boxes.

Ceiling fixtures highlight imperfect seams. Stockpile sheets of drywall on edge in an adjacent room. Whenever possible, place cut edges against corners, where they will be covered by trim or another piece of drywall. Steps on How to Hang Drywall 1. Measure and cut drywall for the ceiling Photo by David Carmack To determine where the first panel's end will land, measure out from a corner, perpendicular to the strapping, or the joists.

If the panel doesn't span the entire ceiling, its end must land on the center of a strapping piece or joist. If it doesn't, measure to the center of the farthest support piece the panel will overlap. Transfer that measurement to the edge of the first panel and mark it. Measure the wall against a piece of drywall to determine whether its end piece will fit in the center of a stud. Again, it's likely that you will have to cut some pieces of drywall in order to center the end pieces onto a stud.

When cutting drywall, use a T-square and razor knife to score a line on one side of the drywall paper. Place your knee on the opposite side of the cut and quickly pull the drywall piece towards you while at the same time pushing your knee outward, snapping the drywall in a clean line. Clean up the remaining paper along the newly formed crease with your razor. With help, hoist the drywall on the wall, and using the drill, install five screws in the stud at the center of the drywall panel.

Start in the center and work outwards. Drive in five screws for each stud. Extra screws may help in some situations, but are usually overkill; they will require extra mudding and sanding that may detract from the overall finish.

Consider using a spring-loaded drywall screw dimpler. They are designed to automatically countersink each drywall screw to precisely the same depth before ratcheting the screw bit, as a sign to quit and back off the drill. Use a drywall saw to make cuts along irregular openings such as arches. Continue installing drywall over window and door openings. You'll be able to trim off excess drywall later.

At the same time, be mindful that no seams line up with a door or window corner, and do not fasten panels to framing around openings yet. A good practice when installing drywall over protruding pipes is to place the drywall against the pipe and lightly tap with a flat block of wood to dimple the back.

Next, pull the drywall away and use a drywall circle cutter or drywall hole saw to cut a perfect hole along the dimple. This should be much easier to finish than if you punch out a large hole that requires coats of mud to finish. Start the next row at the edge of the wall, next to the previous row. Cut out any drywall that has been hung over window or door frames. Fasten the drywall down around the window or door, and then cut out the proper section using a rotary drill or drywall saw.

Part 5. Mix your initial coat of drywall compound, or mud, to the consistency of sour cream. Having the first coat of mud, which you'll apply directly over the seam, a bit runnier than normal will allow the tape to bond well with the mud. Use a drywall knife to apply a liberal amount of mud to a seam. You don't have to worry about getting it perfect the first time through; you'll wipe off the excess after you apply the tape.

Make sure you cover the seam entirely. Put drywall tape over the entire joint you applied the mud to. Use your 6" or 8" drywall putty knife to flatten the tape, starting at one end and pulling towards you in one smooth motion.

You don't need to soak it down too much. Some contractors avoid the perforated and fiber tapes, as they don't produce a flawless finish and require gobs of extra mud and sanding to get the job done right. Do what works best for you and fits in your budget. Wipe off the mud around the tape with your drywall knife. Wipe off excess mud so the surface of the seam is smooth and flattened.

Inspect your recently taped joint for air bubbles. Wet your blade and flatten then out with another swipe if needed. For corner beads, consider using a corner tool that is available for both inside and outside corners. This will give your job a professional finish. Apply mud and tape in a similar manner.

Apply liberal amount of compound. If it isn't already, crease your tape perfectly in the center and reinforce the crease a couple of times. Apply the tape so that the center of the crease fits directly into the corner of the wall. Wipe away excess compound with your drywall knife. Apply at least two to three more coats using a slightly wider putty knife for each application. Let the mud dry between each coat.

It will bubble if you rush it! Many thin coats of mud will give you better results, but patience is required to let it dry.

Don't apply any mud over freshly taped joints. Allow them to thoroughly dry for one day between coats unless you are using hot mud that will dry in an hour. A great idea is to use pink mud that dries white, indicating it is ready for another coat. Don't forget to apply a swipe coat over each screw. You shouldn't notice any edges after screening the mud over a joint line or screw dimple.

Make sure to hold the blade flat against the drywall and pull towards you in smooth but firm strokes. Practice on an old piece of drywall to refine your technique. Part 6. Use a pole sander with drywall sandpaper to sand the hard-to-reach joints after the final coat has dried.

Don't get carried away and sand until you expose the paper. This step goes quickly because the mud will sand off easily. Use a handheld drywall sander with fine-grit sandpaper to hit everything else. Again, caution is key here. A quick couple of scrapes over the joints is all you need. With a handheld light and pencil, go over any surface with compound on it and inspect for flaws.

The light will help you spot imperfections. Circle any problem areas with the pencil. Use a sponge sander or hand sander to briefly hit any flawed areas. Prime the walls, then sand again. Apply a coat of primer to the walls, then sand the entire area lightly using a pole sander.

Homes built before may have asbestos, and homes built before may have lead paint. Hire a home inspector near you or test the walls and ceiling before removing old drywall. When replacing drywall, the open walls provide an opportunity to address other common problems like faulty wiring, leaks, mold, or pests.

Installing drywall is a labor-intensive project requiring at least two people because drywall panels weigh 50 to 60 pounds each. Drywall is a flat panel of gypsum plaster sandwiched between two layers of paper and is used for interior wall and ceiling construction. Drywall is also called wallboard, gypsum board, and plasterboard.

Sheetrock is a specific brand of drywall made by U. Drywalling a house takes 3 days to 2 weeks , depending on the home's size, layout, ceiling height, and the desired drywall finish. A crew of four drywall installers can hang 45 to 80 sheets per day , enough to cover 1, to 2, of wall or ceiling surface. Each 4' x 8' sheet of drywall requires 10 to 16 feet of joint tape. Drywall for a 12' x 12' bedroom requires to feet of tape. One gallon of premixed joint compound covers square feet or three 4' x 8' sheets of drywall.

You do not need a permit to remove, replace, or repair existing drywall. Permits are required when adding drywall to a new wall or when finishing a basement or attic. Drywall lasts 30 to 75 years with proper care. Exposure to moisture, termites, and pests reduces the lifespan. Drywall is a layer of gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or fiberglass. Plaster is a paste-like substance applied over blueboard or wood laths. Plaster is typically used for restorations on older or historic homes.

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